Monday, 30 September 2019

Fire Station Snooker Table………

Back when the TO23 Fire Station from Scalescenes was released, I was in so much of a hurry to get it built, I omitted one key feature from the interior, a snooker table! So, after trawling the internet for a 1/76 scale snooker table (which I hasten to add I couldn’t find) I built my own.
The problem I had once I’d built the snooker table, was the Station was now complete with the roof permanently fixed in place. To add more insult to my dilemma, the model is illuminated, and when the lights are on, there is a huge space where there would have been a snooker table. The only solution I could find to solve the problem, other than cut off the roof and try and fit it back in place, which would never be the same again in my eyes, was to build a second Fire Station. So, it was decided a second Station it is. This wasn’t a problem really because I enjoyed building this kit, and I’m sure I could find another home for the original one.
Anyhow I digress, I happened to show the snooker table I’d made on the Facebook Scalescenesmodelers group, and I was asked by a member, on how I’d fashioned the table? So here you are.
Firstly, I found a piece of 2mm white cardstock. Marked out a rectangle 48mm x 24mm, which in my experience is the size of a full-size snooker table, 12 x 6ft.
Next, cut a smaller rectangle inside of the first, to create a 3mm border.
Cut a piece of the same card to 46mm x 22mm to form the bed of the table.
With green and brown marker pens, colour the playing surface green, and the underneath and the frame brown. Take a fine tip pen or pencil and mark the playing surface with the snooker table markings. 
Lay the bed of the table under the 3mm frame. This forms the main table.
Once the glue is dried, take a bullet tip marker and colour the pockets. Taking care to apply light pressure, as you don’t want to the surface to take too much ink and bleed out, like it has on this one!!
The legs are next. These are made from a stash of orange sticks, I obtained from a well-known online auction site. These are used by women for manicuring. If you are brave enough, you may want to raid your good lady’s make-up bag. (You’d be braver than me).
I cut six of these to 5mm lengths and coloured them with the same brown marker.  I nearly tried to carve in some detail, to make them look like turned table legs, but I thought that that was going a tad too far.
Glue these to the bottom of the table.
Fashion a couple of snooker cues from whatever you have at hand. I used a paper clip and coloured it brown.
And that’s it simple. I now have the problem of finding some suitable size snooker balls. I think I’ll have to make my own out of a paper modelling clay I have.
Until Next Time…………

Monday, 29 July 2019

Completed Fire Station............

Well, as I hoped, I managed to knuckle down and get on with the T023 Fire Station from Scalescenes. No distractions from work and a very understanding wife, I managed to lock myself in the loft and made brilliant headway with the kit. So much so, that is now finished, and I’m over the moon with it. After the headache of where to put the electrics for the lighting, the end result has been brilliant. I can see all of any future kits will be “on the grid” so to speak. The use of the copper tape and 3mm led’s, means that you can adapt any Scalescenes kit to have lighting. Anyway, let’s see how I got to the end result. Next on the list was to knock a kitchen together, and I must say, that’s the quickest kitchen I’ve ever fitted. I wish they were all that easy. 

Next the lockers for the locker room. Now this is one of the rooms I wanted a light in the room below. So I made the lockers up as per the instructions, then cut away a channel in the back, so as to use them as a conduit for the wires off of the light below. Once that the lockers are in place, the wires will be virtually invisible when viewed from the outside. 



A bit of housewares and a few furnishings next. There’s not much point adding illumination the the model and not having anything to see inside. So I just happened to have the Scalescenes Interior Detail kit at hand.
So a washing machine for the laundry room / locker room, a TV cabinet and TV and some seating that should give a focal point in the upstairs space. It’s just a shame there wasn’t a snooker table in the kit. That would have fit in there a treat. 


A clever way of making the ledge for the front of the building is next. It’s incorporated in within the floor edge and forms the ledge which the front facade is located.
Speaking of which, the facade is next along with the completed doors. 


The upper and lower columns are next. Covers layer stuck over 200gsm card stock.
These really finish off the corners and make a pleasant feature of the corner.


The ceiling for the first floor is next. This is the integral part for the lighting in this kit. Once fitted, it will not just house the lighting for the first floor, but will also be the main hub for the rest of the buildings lighting. The led lights are just fitted in 2.5mm holes and held in place with a little hot glue. The copper tape is run around the upper part of the ceiling and all connections made to the tape. Ensuring that all the correct polarity is observed. I have to mark the copper tape with red and black marker so as that I don’t get the mixed up. 


Then the connection is made to the copper tape that rises invisibly through the gable end wall.

Once all of the lights have been tested and working, fit the roof and apply the ridge capping. 

Now I’ve cheated a little for the next step. The instructions  state that you roll up some soil pipes from the kit. I have in my stash, some fine rubber piping, so using the supplied jig that comes in the kit, I fashioned my soil pipes from this. 

The chimney stack goes into place next, along with its capping. The chimney pots will be added at the end so as not to knock them off whilst finishing the kit.

Right, let’s decide which option I want for the Drill Tower. The kit gives you two options. A stand alone Drill Tower, which would typically stand at the bottom of the Drill Yard or the option, which is the one I’ve gone for, a connecting Drill Tower to the main building.

It’s a Tower with a pleasant column and arch detail.
The front wall is first. Again, I leave the cover layer intact until it’s fixed to the base layer and cut it once it’s all square. It makes life so much easier.


Quickly colour in the inside of the arch with a matching marker. 

The door section is next, and add the sills.


The side walls are of the same construction as the front wall.
Once made, these are glued to the completed front wall. Making sure that everything is square and true.  


The corner covers are next, and these again cover the corners very nice and add a nice detail. 


The rear wall is next. And as you can see, I’ve chosen the connected version. This will show the flashing once it’s glued to the main building.

The guttering is next, along with the roof and ridge capping. 


Add the drainpipes and Glue the Drill Tower to the main building and that’s it. Kit complete.


Below are some of the interior detail shots.



I waited a long time for this kit to be released by Scalescenes, and I have to say, I’ve not been disappointed. It has all of the detail I’ve come to expect from Scalescenes and some. It’s been a pleasure to build, so much so, I’ve downloaded the red brick version to build at a later date.

Until Next Time.............