Hornby Magazine Low Relief Corner Shop............

Well it’s been a while. I apologise for being away for so long, but what with work commitments and life in general, along with the loss of my mojo, posting on my blog was the last thing on my mind. But now I’m back with renewed enthusiasm and drive! 

I’m eagerly awaiting the release of the new Shops on a slope kit from Scalescenes. Hopefully this will be in the next few weeks, but until then, I’ve got my hands on the free giveaway in the September issue of Hornby Magazine. 

It’s a Low Relief Corner Shop, and I can’t wait to get my teeth into it.

Please forgive me for the layout of this post, but the version of the blog publisher I use has changed immensely, and I’m try to work my way around the changes.

So here goes, let’s see if I can remember how to do these kits. 

It all starts with the ingenious way that the drainpipe is incorporated within the interior walls. There’s no way it can be knocked off once finished.

Next cut out all of the floors and ceilings and glue the corresponding pieces back to back with each other.

 

Once you’ve cut out the back wall, glue into place the interior wall/drainpipe, and floors. Make sure that you the walls and floors are all square and perpendicular. Taking time at this stage, will pay dividends later in the build. Trust me, if it’s out of square now, nothing will fit later.

 

Next, cut out and glue back to back, the two side walls. Once dry, fit into place. Cut out the upper ceiling and glue in place.

 

Next, cut out the smaller of the front wall base layer and cover layer. A couple of top tips at this stage. With a felt pen or marker, try and match the colour of the brick and mark the underside of the window openings, on both the base layer and cover layer. This hides the raw edge of the cover layer and the base layer. The next top tip, just cut out the header and sill openings on the cover layer leaving the flaps uncut at this stage. I find that leaving them uncut, it helps to keep the cover layer square when gluing to the base layer. Cut the window openings out once the cover layer is glued to the base layer.

 

Next, cut out and glue the sills into place. 

Windows are next. I’m fortunate that I have supply of Scaleglaze windows, which are brilliant, and I highly recommend them. They save so much time and effort in cutting out fiddly windows, so I’ve used them, but if you haven’t got Scaleglaze windows, carefully cut out the windows supplied with the kit and glue into place along with the door. At this point, if you are putting curtains on, do it now. Once complete, glue into position. 

The shop floor is next. Simply cut out and glue into position. Once the floor is in position, add the interior detail of the shop.

The main front wall is next, and it’s just repeat as for the small wall. Apart from you need to introduce an angle in the base layer before you glue the cover layer in place. Once complete, and if you’ve fit any interior detail, fit and glue into position. 

Next, carefully cut out the shop overlay and mount onto clear film or acetate, then glue into position on the shop front.

The Shopfront 2 is next. Carefully cut out and mount onto acetate as before and carefully score the red score lines, and fold into the correct angles. Glue into place and the fit the door shop step into position. 

Working on the shop front is next. Cut out, score and fit the first fascia base layer and glue into place. Next cut out both the base and cover layers for the fascia ledge and glue together. Once dry, carefully cut out the hatched area and glue over the fascia. Cut out and glue into position the fascia cover layer. Then cut out and fit your choice of shop sign.

Cut out and fit the shop overlay into place.

Cut out both the plinth base and cover layer and glue together. Touch up any raw edges with a marker pen, then glue into position. 

Cut out, colour the raw edges, test fit and glue the front wall ledges into position.

The gutter is next. Cut out the base layer and glue the corresponding cover layers into position. Touch up any raw edges, then test fit and glue into position. 

The roof supports and chimney are next. Glue the three chimney base layers together. While the glue sets, cut out the chimney cover layer. Once dried, wrap around the base layer. Cut out and glue together into blocks of two, both of the roof supports. Then glue onto the corresponding positions on the gutter layer. Clamp together to make sure they set. 

Cut out all of the roof supports and glue together roof supports 1 and 3 into blocks of two. Once dried, again following the blue guidelines, fit to the gutter layer. 

Top tip. Make sure that all of the supports are in line. This will make sure that the roof is nice and flat.

The roof comes next. Cut out the roof base layers and carefully score the red line on the larger piece. Cut out the individual tiles for both the roof sections. Take note that the tile strips and the base layers, now come with numbered references. These help with lining up the weathering patterns on the tiles. Continue to apply the tile strips all the way to the top. 

Once you’ve completed the tiles, test fit and glue into position the roof sections and fit the ridge tiles. 

Cut out the chimney capping base and cover with the cover layer. Fit into place.

And finally, cut out and glue into position the side wall overlay. 

And that’s it. I’m calling this done.

And that’s it. I’m calling this done. I’ve enjoyed this kit and it’s good to get back into the swing of blogging about the process. Hopefully the main kit that I think that this kit is taken from, the Low Relief Shops on a Slope, isn’t too long before it’s released. Can’t wait. It’s been a long time coming. 

 

Until Next Time……………..