Here we go with a big push to the finish line. This post will be a little longer than a normal post, as I had a day off work and nobody at home, so I ensconced myself in the loft and set to and made good progress. As you know I’m building the T029 China Clay Loading Facility from Scalescenes. With this kit I’m having a dabble with lighting. So I’ve had to take my time and plan where the lights and electrics have to go. I’ll tell you all about that part when we get to that stage. Also in this kit, Scalescenes have a new jig to make corrugated sheeting. Again more on that as we come to it.
Firstly this time, it’s time to make all of the doors for the facility. Both the backs and the fronts are glued together, and run a marker around the raw edge.
Top tip, when cutting out notches and or glueing two sections with notches together, make yourself a small peg out of two pieces off the same material that is eventually going into the hole. In this case it’s two x 2mm card stock and two cover layers. This tip is two fold, 1, it makes sure you’ve cut the notch wide enough and 2, it aligns the two pieces as the glue sets.
Once the glue sets, fix it in place on the front of the building. Don’t forget to fit the doors in the channels, it will be too late to put the in place later.
The canopy is next. This is where it starts to become interesting. Now I’m not an electrician, so don’t judge me. I’ve decided to have two lights under the canopy. I’m using 3mm Warm white led’s. Having decided where to place the lights, I’ve made the holes with a 2.5mm hole punch. This makes a nice tight fit for the led’s, and these get fixed with a dollop of hot glue. The “wiring” is 6mm sticky backed copper tape. I used this to great effect on my last build. It’s so easy to hide and fit the tape between layers and route it all over the building.
Once the canopy is fitted, it’s a simple case of routing the copper tape from the canopy, over the rafters to the back of the model ready for the lights on the back of the building.
These were fitted the same as before. The copper tape will be routed to the power source shortly.
This next stage is the one I’ve been eagerly awaiting. It’s the creation of the corrugated panels using the new jig.
Now I suggest that you print out a test page in low quality and grey scale to use as a sacrificial practice piece. It’s not a hard process, but there is a fine line between embossing and cutting through the sheet. Getting the right pressure is critical. Once masted, move onto the good sheets.
The instruction that come with the kit are very clear, but here is my take on the task.
Firstly, cut out all of the strips of sheets.
Next fold along the marked score line.
Place the scored edge under the jig and apply firm pressure.
Carefully wrap the sheet around the jig and place the second piece of the jig over the sheet. Apply firm pressure to the second piece and secure the sheet in place.
Now here is where the practice pays off. Run the supplied embossing tool along length of the sheet in the first groove, gently. Too much pressure and the sheet will tear. Repeat the process for all of the grooves.
Once you’ve embossed all of the grooves remove the the sheet and admire your work. Repeat with the rest of the sheets.
Now that you’ve embossed all of the sheets, cut them to the required lengths.
If you’ve mastered the technique, like me, you’ll like the results.
Now that you have all of the corrugated sheets embossed and cut out, you have a choice. Having tried a test piece first and a discussion with John at Scalescenes, he advises that you butt the joints of the sheets together, I’m afraid I disagree, I slightly overlapped the sheets as would of been done in reality. There is enough wiggle room to do this as you cut off any excess at the end. The choice is yours, both work equally well.
Firstly, carefully glue the respective sheets to the awning roof. Be aware that there is a slight overlap at the bottom of the roof. This is intentional.
Once complete, glue the roof in place and finish off with the side capping.
Now fit the main roof without the sheeting. Once in place, again carefully glue the sheeting in place. Taking care to align the sheets with the awning sheets. Again, the is a slight overhang.
Once the main roof is in place, put the sheets on the gable end panels and fit in place.
Finish off with the side capping.
Glue the door rails together next and set aside.
Construct the platform base, making sure you keep it square.
While the base is drying, glue the two platform sections together and put the cover layer in place. Make sure the two door channels are clear from glue and debris. This will impede the door operation.
Decide whether you are making a left or right platform, wrap the respective cover layer around the base, and glue on the platform top.
Fit both sets of door rails, again, remember to put the doors in place first. Check the doors operate before the glue dries.
I now had to decide where I was going to put the power unit, so I cut out all of the constituent parts for the storeroom.
I routed the copper tape down to the storeroom ready to go through the wall.
I’ve just used a 12v battery and holder for now. Ultimately, when it gets its final home on a layout, it will be hard wired. But for now, it will be switched from behind.
Once all of the connections are made and tested, all the walls are put in place, and the guttering added
I really like this new lichen encrusted slates. They’re even numbered to keep them in order.
Trim off the excess from the end.
Test and fit the roof in place.
And finish off with the barge boards.
And that’s the main structure complete. The only things left to complete the kit, is to construct two access ramps. Hopefully I’ll get them done at the weekend, and I’ll show you the finished model then.
Until Next Time.............